Makeup 101: Ace the Base

makeup tips and tricks Photos: Mike Chard. Styling: Melissa Korn. Model: Ulyana Tverskoy for Seattle Models Guild

Seattleite and Barneys NY makeup Stylist Melissa Korn offers some simple tips and tricks to master the complexion.

Some say it’s frivolous, some say it’s mandatory, we say it’s magic. Whatever your personal feelings are when it comes to makeup and how it makes you feel, nobody can deny its impact. When done correctly, eyes brighten, bags vanish, tired complexions glow and your smile is the first thing people see. When applied incorrectly, flaws seem only to magnify.

Here are some time-tested, Makeup-Artist approved tips to ensuring your makeup routine is putting your best face forward.

makeup tips and tricks
Photos: Mike Chard. Styling: Melissa Korn. Model: Ulyana Tverskoy for Seattle Models Guild

Love your skin.

Foundation feeling a little dry? Powder looking cakey? Makeup wearing off halfway through the day and — gasp — actually changing color?

All of these woes can be eliminated or at least minimized by one magical product, the Primer. Designed to be applied after your skincare and prior to makeup, this wonder product preps your skin to perfectly apply any type of base makeup. Try a pea-size amount to fill in lines and pores, smooth out the complexion, and add hours to your makeup-wear time. And for those who find their base just somehow doesn’t match their face halfway through the day, it helps prevent makeup oxidization, a key concern especially for oilier skin types.

Try: NARS Makeup Primer, Hourglass Mineral Primer

Photo: Mike Chard. Styling: Melissa Korn. Model: Ulyana Tverskoy for Seattle Models Guild

Make your Best Match.

Finding the right foundation is daunting to say the least. With options ranging from liquids, creams, powders and everything in between, picking your best formula is easier than you may think.

First, determine your skin type. Is your skin perpetually shiny? Do the words “ Oil Control” have you at hello? Powder Foundation may be your new best friend. This is the go-to solution for much needed touch-ups, with light to medium coverage.

Artist Tip: After applying powder foundation with sponge applicator, buff the excess away with a powder brush for the most flawless coverage. For a natural effect, forgo the sponge and try applying directly from brush — skin will look smooth and even.

Try: NARS Powder Foundation SPF

Do the words “Sahara Desert” and your face draw any comparisons? Have you found that despite all the much-hyped face creams you have lining your dresser, Vaseline is the one thing you gleefully smear across your face at night? Dry may be an understatement, but there’s no reason for your foundation to under-deliver on moisture.

While your base should never replace your skincare, there are a few options that will let you cheat when need be.

Try: Natura Bisse Sheer Cure: I can’t rave enough about this product. While the company claims it is really an SPF moisturizer with the added benefit of evening out your skin, don’t be too quick to discount the cosmetic benefits of this one-color-fits-all treatment. Violet color adjusters adapt to virtually any skin tone, delivering a gorgeous, glowy effect that blurs imperfections and protects with sunscreen. Oh, and helps with collagen production too? Sign us up.

Artist Tip: For a naturally perfected complexion, add a small touch of Cle De Peau concealer in any areas that require slightly more coverage. (I dare you to find a celebrity who doesn’t use this concealer!) This is the one to reach for when the camera is on and you need to be, too. Like butter, this melts into skin but doesn’t melt into lines. Creamy, rich and definitely decadent, it sounds sinful. I say the only sin is not partaking in this gorgeous base!

Artist Tip: For long lasting, age-defying makeup, try Shu Uemura’s Translucent Loose Powder.

Does “Sensitive” label your skin far more than your personality? Do you stare longingly at the various options of makeup base, then snap back to reality, because you “know better”?

Makeup has come along way, and those with sensitive and rosacea skin types don’t have to be excluded anymore. Consult your Dermatologist before beginning a new product, and be sure to ask for a sample prior to purchase to ensure it works for you.

Here are some to try:

Jane Iredale Liquid Minerals Foundation: A lightweight, brightening liquid foundation that doesn’t contain some of the common culprits known to irritate sensitive skin.

Susan Posnick ColorFLO: A quick and easy makeup in a brushtip applicator that has only nine ingredients, ensuring even the most delicate skins a comfortable and pretty coverage.

Photo: Mike Chard. Styling: Melissa Korn. Model: Ulyana Tverskoy for Seattle Models Guild

Artist Tip: Apply makeup only where needed — most often the cheeks, nose and under the eyes. Less is more!

When asked your skin type at your local Cosmetic Counter, does your face immediately go blank? Do you find you have tried almost every type of foundation, and they were all…fine? Then you, lucky girl (or guy!) are “normal.” You don’t require skincare benefits from your base, and it’s up to you to determine what formula suits you best.

Here are a few options:

“I don’t want to look like I’m wearing makeup.” Quite possibly the number one concern of any Seattle woman over the age of 25. Try: Chantecaille Future Skin Makeup. An oil-free lightweight and buildable makeup that has a gorgeous rosewater base. Developed by the woman who created Prescriptives, unsurprisingly, these colors dissapear into the skin, coverage doesn’t.

“I want my skin to look even, not wear off and have some coverage.” Try: NARS Sheer Glow or Sheer Matte Foundation. There is a reason you will find the NARS Artistry Team backstage working New York Fashion Week for some of the biggest designers around — Marc Jacobs and Philip Lim, among many others. These foundations give you the choice of some of the most global-friendly color options around. With adjustable coverage and a light texture, they cover while looking natural. Whichever formula you choose, this makeup is flawless in real life and on the runway.

“I need to look pulled together when I travel.” Before resigning yourself to the fact some airline security guard is going to have a field day using your confiscated beauty loot, take a look at some Travel-Approved options that will make it through your trip and back home safely with you again.

Try: Chantecaille New Stick. Portable pigment in a sleek silver tube. With maximum concealing and a super smooth texture, you may just find yourself upgraded to First Class.

Try: Serge Lutens Teint Si Fin Compact Foundation. Let’s just say if you are already wearing this foundation, you’re probably also already traveling in First Class. Undeniably pricey, but well worth the credit card bill for those who can afford it, this is the Birkin bag of makeup base. With invisible coverage that even can be used under the eyes, it’s the ideal do-it-all travel companion. For the glamour girl without a budget.

Artist Tips: In the department store, allow your salesperson to help you match your color. With so many options, and hard-to-read names to decipher (BF-20, anyone?) your sales person can be your best friend. Test the color not only on the jawline, but also on the cheek to ensure the most realistic color. And don’t be afraid to check the color outside in natural light. Department store lighting can vary.

Ask questions. Your sales associate wants to help you pick your best product and is educated to teach you about your options. Remember, beauty comes from within. But a little makeup never hurt anyone!

Credits:

Photographer Mike Chard

Model Ulyana Tverskoy for Seattle Models Guild

Makeup Artist & Stylist Melissa Korn for BelleLuxe Makeup on Location

Hair (updo in sweater, and black dress ): Blair Nicole Sams for Gene Juarez

Hair (throughout): Melissa Korn

Wardrobe by Barneys New York | 600 Pine St. Seattle WA 98101 | (206) 622-6300

Grey wrap sweater and hat, Model’s own.