A local brew titan takes on a studied sommelier for the title of the premium pairing.

The Waterfront Seafood Grill recently hosted its second annual Beer vs. Wine dinner. After a crippling loss to last year’s winner, Dogfish Organic Ales, wine director Kristin Young came out with guns a’blazin’ against this year’s contender, Pike Brewing Co.

Both Pike founder Charlie Finkel and Young have flip-flopped in their industry backgrounds. Finkel got his start in wine sales, while Young cut her teeth in a college brewery.

“I went with less hoppy beers because hops are bitter and they sometimes fight with the food,” said Finkel, who is a veritable history buff where beer, wine and spirits are concerned. Likewise, Young aimed for wines that either matched the intensity of the dishes or gave a “yin yang” approach with focus on the opposing attributes of the food and juice.

We ate, we drank and now we’re here to break it down like MC Lyte and announce which beverage reigned supreme.

1st Course: Fried local oyster with tropical salsa

Pairing: Pike Dry Wit Seasonal White Ale vs. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Luxe

Seattleite Pick: The bubbles aired on the sweeter side which was a tad too rich for the intense mollusk. However, the crisp wit of the white ale was refreshing and cut through the oyster’s lushness.

Winner: Beer

2nd Course: Softshell crab with a Cajun remoulade over sugar snap peas and a Yukon gold potato salad

Pairing: Pike Naughty Nellie Golden Ale vs. Long Shadows Poet’s Leap 2009 Riesling

Seattleite Pick: Key word is Cajun. Spice and Riesling go like white and rice — and the subtle honey of the wine soothed the heat of the remoulade with precision.

Winner: Wine

3rd Course: Seared Alaskan halibut with caramelized onion, apricot and pommes gaufrettes

Pairing: Pike Kilt Lifter Scotch Ale vs. Buty Conner Lee 2009 Chardonnay

Seattleite Pick: Fatty, opulent and flavorful, the halibut and the Chardonnay must have been separated at birth. The Chardonnay distinctly offered acidity to counter the fish’s fullness.

Winner: Wine

4th Course: Rack of lamb with a white bean puree and a rosemary demi-glace

Pairing: Pike Tandem Double Ale vs. Betz Le Serenne 2008 Syrah

Seattleite Pick: Blame it on the white bean puree, but the Syrah just didn’t hit it. The Double Ale matched the juice of the lamb and tore through the puree, closing as a refresher to the heavy course.

Winner: Beer

5th Course: Port wine chocolate ganache with candied ginger, orange peel and crème anglaise

Pairing: Pike XXXXX Dry Stout vs. Clos Chatart 1993 Banyuls

Seattleite Pick: Beer had no chance. For desserts, the drink should always be sweeter than the delicacy. Banyuls is the nectar of the French Gods who created ganache. Delicious insta-pairing, simply put.

Winner: Wine

Conclusion: They say it takes good beer to make great wine. During this face-off, Young proved that theory as she took the gold medal as winner of the 2011 Beer vs. Wine dinner. Hop on the Waterfront’s mailing list so you don’t miss next year’s epic battle of the beverages!

Waterfront Seafood Grill | 2801 Alaskan Way #70, Seattle | (206) 956-9171