When was the last time you had an authentic Galician meal?

The Rías Baixas, located on Spain’s Costa de Mariscos in the southern part of the Galicia region, is a kindred geographical spirit to the Pacific Northwest. Which is to say, it rains there — a lot. Luckily, the resilient, en vogue Mediterranean variety of Albariño handles the dampness quite nicely. The grape has no trouble growing — or even flourishing — in the misty, cool coastal terrain that is much like our own.

Albariño (pronounced Al-bah-reen-yo) is anything but dank, though. With an overall sunny disposition, it is bright, fresh and crisp, full of yellow and orange fruits and a charming nutty quality. The wine’s name — bestowed by 12th century monks — translates to “the white from the Rhine.” Albariño’s first cultivators believed the grape originated near the mighty German river, noting its similarities to Riesling. Eventually, it became a household varietal in Spain, as well as Portugal, where it is known as Alvarinho.

In the United States, on the other hand, Albariño remains lost in translation. As we all know, however, the way to American hearts is through the stomach — so it stands to reason that an approachable Spanish wine should be served with an authentic, equally amiable Spanish dish.

The Restaurant: Hunger is owned by Brian Brooks and Jaime Mullins-Brooks, a husband-wife chef couple who were ceremonially wed in the back of the restaurant last December. The restaurant’s cuisine — fresh, seasonal and locally-sourced — is a fine fusion of Mediterranean style and Northwest ingredients. Hunger is generous with both portion sizes (“small plate” is a relative term) and darn good hospitality — two indicators that the restaurant is an authentic spot for coastal European cuisine.

The Dish: Signature seafood paella — Jaime’s choice course to flex her Medi-muscles. With a backbone of andouille sausage, chorizo, chicken and a load of peppers, the dish is rounded out by clams, mussels and jumbo prawns enriched with harissa and saffron. It is fitting that this quintessential Spanish fare is the regional dish of Valencia — the dish (as we know it today) originated there in the mid-19th century.

The Variety: Aromatic and lush with orange fruit flavors, Albariño is typically likened to Gewurztraminer or Viognier, but the distinguishing factor is its non-fruit, nutty aroma and spicy lemon undertones.

Why It Works: Just like paella, Albariño is Galician. Crisp and refreshing, the rounded white varietal shows well with or without age in the bottle, and can hold its own alongside moist chicken, chewy  sausage and spicy seasonal crustaceans.

The Recommended Wine Match: Bodegas Fillaboa 2010 Rías Baixas Albariño. Bodegas Fillaboa has been producing Albariño in Galicia since 1988. Bursts of apple, pineapple and citrus aromas lift up the nose of the wine, while classic stone fruit flavors influence the palate. Fresh and distinctly nutty, the finish is both clean-cut and lively — not to mention mouth-watering.

Hunger | 4256 Fremont Ave. N., Seattle | (206) 402-4854